Well, I finished the base today. It really wasn't all that hard, although the kickplates were a little long, so I had to trim those down on the tablesaw. No big deal. The only really hard part about it was lining everything up. Here is my basic process:
1. Start with the base upside down, and do a rough layout with the kickplates and supports on the sheet.
2. Figure out the best measurement, then make sure all the pieces are centered.
3. Using the sharpest/finest pencil you can get, make some lines to mark where the boards are. I used a 0.3mm mechanical pencil.
4. Flip the base sheet over, then make a layout line 2 3/8" in from the edge on each end, because even though my plans had the kickplates as 1 1/2" in from either end, I ended up with them being 2" from each end. The same goes for the supports, and in my case, I went with the supports 8" in from the edges, so the lines were 8 3/8" in from the edges.
5. Next draw some lines to mark where the screws will go. I used my combination square, to keep the screw holes as symmetrical as possible.
6. After they are marked, use a center punch to help the drill bit. This is an optional step, but very helpful to make sure the drill bit doesn't go skating across the MDF.
7. Now here's the hard part. make sure the parts are lined up, then drill them. I started with the kickplates before I even thought about the supports. Make sure they are square; this is where the lines we drew earlier prove invaluable, because now all you have to do is make sure the edges are right up against the line. While you're doing this, don't forget to keep the edges flush. After you drill those holes, get the supports lined up and drill them. This is the most frustrating part, because you can't really see, so it takes a lot of time with a combination square, and a heaping scoop of patience.
After all that, the actual glueup was easy. What I did was get a screw on both ends started, to where the tips were just sticking through. Get the glue on the kickplate or support, and I didn't even bother spreading it around. After that, just stick it on, and drive the screws. The reason for the screws is that it helps with the alignment; just get the hole lined up with the screw tip, then drive it in. Once those two screws are in, it's a simple thing to just go down the row, driving the rest of the screws in.
Here's a picture of the base with all of the holes drilled and countersunk. You can see the layout lines, as well as the symmetry of the holes.
Behind the glue bottle is a 50 pound weight, which was extremely useful when trying to get the supports to stay in position.
This is the base with only one of the kickplates installed.
Here it is with everything fastened, now to let it dry.
1. Start with the base upside down, and do a rough layout with the kickplates and supports on the sheet.
2. Figure out the best measurement, then make sure all the pieces are centered.
3. Using the sharpest/finest pencil you can get, make some lines to mark where the boards are. I used a 0.3mm mechanical pencil.
4. Flip the base sheet over, then make a layout line 2 3/8" in from the edge on each end, because even though my plans had the kickplates as 1 1/2" in from either end, I ended up with them being 2" from each end. The same goes for the supports, and in my case, I went with the supports 8" in from the edges, so the lines were 8 3/8" in from the edges.
5. Next draw some lines to mark where the screws will go. I used my combination square, to keep the screw holes as symmetrical as possible.
6. After they are marked, use a center punch to help the drill bit. This is an optional step, but very helpful to make sure the drill bit doesn't go skating across the MDF.
7. Now here's the hard part. make sure the parts are lined up, then drill them. I started with the kickplates before I even thought about the supports. Make sure they are square; this is where the lines we drew earlier prove invaluable, because now all you have to do is make sure the edges are right up against the line. While you're doing this, don't forget to keep the edges flush. After you drill those holes, get the supports lined up and drill them. This is the most frustrating part, because you can't really see, so it takes a lot of time with a combination square, and a heaping scoop of patience.
After all that, the actual glueup was easy. What I did was get a screw on both ends started, to where the tips were just sticking through. Get the glue on the kickplate or support, and I didn't even bother spreading it around. After that, just stick it on, and drive the screws. The reason for the screws is that it helps with the alignment; just get the hole lined up with the screw tip, then drive it in. Once those two screws are in, it's a simple thing to just go down the row, driving the rest of the screws in.
Behind the glue bottle is a 50 pound weight, which was extremely useful when trying to get the supports to stay in position.
All in all, I'd say I had a very productive day.
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